BookReports1

TITLE: STARTING NEEDLEPOINT LACE
AUTHOR: VALERIE GRIMWOOD
HEG# 1630
Anyone remotely interested in this form of lace will find a fascinating history and study behind it, as
needlepoint lace is one of the oldest forms of lacemaking, developing around the mid 16th c. It evolved
from the earlier styles of cutwork embroidery and reticella, in which some of the warp and weft threads
were still part of the lace. This style of lacemaking formed an open framework over which the lace stitches
were worked giving the lace a geometric look. Originating in Italy, principally around the area of Venice,
this lace style was called "punto in aria" or "stitch in the air". It was worked on a framework of couched
threads on parchment using needle and threads to build a variety of stitches. The stitches are based
mainly on detached buttonhole (blanket stitch) which are worked over a couched
thread outline called the cordonnet. Being independent of the fabric, this style of lacemaking allowed
designers access to more free flowing and curving designs. Eventually this style of lacemaking made its
way across Europe from Italy,
and was influential in aiding other countries in developing their own styles of lacemaking industries.
Abounding with black and white diagrams this book discusses everything from the basic equipment
needed, to the five stages needed to work a piece; including how to set up and work with the cordonnet.
The design of the piece is left up to the stitcher, but ideas are given for simple motifs. A wide variety of
stitches are presented from simple to complex. Ideas for design, color and threads are also given. This
book is so well written that even those who are far from a teacher, or are like me, following directions
challenged, will have no difficulty whatsoever. In fact the instructions are so good that even a child or a
super novice in needleworking can be turned into a future lace maker!
This book has been placed in our library as a gift from Lorraine Meyer
Norrene Trama
Librarian

TITLE: HAUTE COUTURE EMBROIDERY : The art of Lesage
AUTHOR: Palmer White
HEG #1424
For those of you who thoroughly enjoyed last months program, and had your eyes opened to a whole new
world of fashion, like I did, this book is one you will certainly enjoy. I would especially like to thank Holly
Ortiz from our Beaumont Chapter for her wonderful program and for the eye opening creations she
brought with her. Because of her, I was inspired to read and review this book, which sat quietly in our
library and now has a total new meaning and appreciation for the type of expertise required to create a
garment of haute couture quality. Embroidery has always marked times of luxury and opulence and
denoted social status. This book reviews developments in dress as seen through embroidery from
pre-history into the late 19th Century. It traces the history of haute couture from the advent of Charles
Frederic Worth into the late 1980's. French fashion could never have achieved or maintained it's unique
place as the supreme world arbiter of feminine
elegance without it's unsung heroes; the designers of fabrics, prints, jewelry, footwear, trimmings and
accessories, along with the milliners, dyers, furriers, photographers and most of all the workroom
seamstresses. It is the seamstresses and embroiderers whose contribution greatly helps create and
maintain images according to ones fancy, individuality, wealth and position. One of the most durable,
imaginative and innovative of these French embroiderers the house of Lesage.
This house was the inheritor of the tradition and reputation passed down from the mid 19th C couturier
Charles Frederic Worth, and has served 4 generations of designers including Scaparelli, Christian
Lacroix, Chanel and the list goes on and
on. The first part of this book gives the history of the Lesage family and how they came to be one of the
most predominant embroidery houses of all times. Many pieces of their work are featured in the beautiful
color plates that are generously
sprinkled throughout the book. These plates show everything from the smallest details used on garments
(beads, feathers and stitches) to the entire finished garment itself. The techniques and diverse materials
and fibers used to achieve these results are discussed and there are many instances where garments
are shown from original sketches to end productions. The second portion of this book is dedicated to the
impact that the house of Lesage has had on the fashion world from WW II forward. It discusses some of
the top embroiderers, telling of their histories and showing pieces of their beautiful creations. There are
separate chapters which detail the creations for the 60's, 70's and 80's; each plate showing more and
more elaborate and magnificent designs. The last section will be of definite interest to our "Beading
Buddies" group. In order to diversify itself, the house of Lesage conceived a new venture, .embroidered
jewelry and accessories. Historically this was not a new concept as even the earliest records tell of
predecessors and there was a great outburst of them in the late 18th and early 19th C. After WW I these
accessories fell into a slow decline, and it was not until Lesage gave them new life, combining their
artistry, and traditions with French refinement to create accessories of unsurpassed elegance and style.
While most of us may never be the owner of a haute couture garment, there is no law against dreaming
and if you are like me, this book will certainly give your dreams a definite boost to levels you never thought
to dream about. This book was placed in our library by Pat Rozendal, Louise Donovan, Patsy
Domengeaux, Lorraine Meyer, Mary Alice
Black, and Edna Murray as a remembrance of Melinda Burrs mother, JoAnn Thomas.
Norrene Trama
Librarian

TITLE: TAMBOUR WORK
AUTHOR: YUSAI FUKUYAMA
HEG # 1550
Tambour work comes to us with a long and very international history. It is a hand embroidery technique
worked by holding the fabric taut usually in a frame and using
a small crochet type hook as a needle. The right side of the fabric is placed facing up and the basic stitch
called "the chain" is applied. The "chain" stitch, while the basis of tambour work is an interesting stitch in
it's own right goes back many thousands of years. The earliest forms of tambour (chain stitch) type work
are to be found in China, where exquisite work was done on silk using silk threads.
Eventually this art form made it's way into India, Persia (now Iran), Turkey, and finally into Europe. One of
the most interesting aspects of this work is the amount of mediums it can be applied to. Basic fabrics can
be as fine as silk or linen, or can be more basic and everyday such as muslin, cotton or even felt. It has
also been done
using leather as the background. The threads can be as varied as the background and can include
anything from silk and linen to knitting, macramé, regular sewing, crochet or even weaving. All the
information needed to recreate both traditional and
contemporary tambour can be found inside the pages of this book. Diagrams abound, showing
everything from basic stitches and couching to applying beads and sequins using the tambour hook and
techniques. This book is packed with
ideas to suit various decorative uses, from collars, to clothing embellishments, to household items such
as linens and towels. This book is ideal not only for beginners, but also for experienced needle workers
eager to master this
traditional art form. This book was placed in our library as a gift from
Lorraine Meyer.
Norrene Trama
Librarian

Title: Embroidered Birds
Author Helen Stevens
HEG # 224

"Opus Plumarium" .........now that's a 50 cent word if I ever heard one. You can really use that term if you want to
impress people. The translation literally means a work of feathers; and dates back to medieval times when clerks
documented the sumptuous gifts of embroidery donated to abbeys and monasteries. (Those were the days
when needlework counted for something!). The word eventually evolved (as most words do) in the Anglo Saxon
vernacular to describe the split stitch which covered fabric with fluid, ever changing sweeps of color to create an
illusion of life and movement.

Bird motifs appear throughout history and are second in popularity only to floral designs. The ancient Egyptians
used birds in their embroideries and also in their hieroglyphics. The Chinese used birds frequently in their silk
paintings as well as their embroideries. And, least we not forget the Jacobean crewel work which incorporated
many bird motifs into their designs. Thus, from medieval to modern birds have had their place in history as well
as in the craft of embroidery. It is now up to us the modern stitcher to decide weather or not we want to use the
stylized or realistic form of these beautiful creatures in our works.

All venues of birds are covered in this magnificent book, starting with domestic types which include parrots,
roosters and canaries, all so beautifully done in magnificent colors. Ms. Stevens then moves on to wild birds (i.e.
water birds, and birds of prey) and then on to what she calls "Town and Country" birds which can be seen in
most suburban backyard settings. One of the chapters is called "Flights of Fancy" and shows us how we can
bring mythological birds to life. This chapter covers birds such as the Roc, the Phoenix, and a bird called the
Garuda........the Indian bird of life.